Let me shed some light on this situation.
First season everybody bought it up, but it didn’t sell well in retail stores at all, despite what everybody thinks. Check the actual retail store numbers, it sold like shit, and and all the listed retailers bought the absolute bare minimum to be listed as a stockist to ride the Yeezy credibility wave. I’m talking 1-3 of each piece in as few sizes as possible. I have confirmed sources on this, don’t question it. Kanye blew through $8M of Adidas’ money last collection just for the sake of running a massive vanity project. Adidas still profited it off this through making back their money in the Tubulars and other Adidas variant sneakers. There is nothing special about the clothes, they are made in the Adidas factory and use typical product production methods. This isn’t like Visvim where you have guys literally hand dying every strip by hand using 16th century methods. The pricing is bullshit, and you all know that.
The sneakers and boots sold amazingly, but they always have so that’s not news. They were also limited so they couldn’t serve as a cash grab to recover the costs of doing an $8M promotional line. Right now, they’re stating they’re releasing it in a seasonless model to spread it out but the real reason probably is to get their production margin and minimums up high enough to not lose as much money this time around when producing such small quantities for that many stores.
Going seasonless is bullshit, the fashion distribution system does not work that way. You can break it up into quarters but anything more than that and the retailers will be too rushed to be able to turn products around fast enough, and thus make buying Yeezy a huge risk for them. Stores need minimum 90 days from point of delivery to flip products. The shoes will definitely have ridiculous camp outs but the clothes won’t. For E-Commerce maybe he can drop every week, but that’s putting him more in the category of a brand like Supreme, when he wants to be treated like Wang or somebody else high end.
If you don’t believe me, when the list of stockists holding Yeezy 2 comes out, see if it’s twice as big as the first year list, the same size, or smaller. It will probably be smaller, because no decent retail store wants to spend $20k on bullshit product that doesn’t move. Laws of the jungle, real fashion is forever. Hype is temporary bullshit. He may have done one season so far and got everybody to buy, but if the retailers aren’t actually making money off it they logically won’t do it again if they care about their bottom line.
Well articulated my g ^^^^.
In my estimation from the consumer’s standpoint metaphorically only the rich as fuck 1% can afford the actually clothes from the line…but if you consider all the folks around Hollywood, Kardashian fam, and other budding celebs that he blessed with free care packages who the hell is suppose to be left to pay upwards to 500 for a top…the other 99% that legit do not have that kind of disposable income whether they like the threads or not.
Ye’s a genious and regardless I appreciate the public lumps he takes as he follows his vision. I wish I could support the clothes but I too fall in the financially not as fortunate 99%
Thanks man. The truth is, most of the people you’ll see wearing his clothes will be getting them for free anyways. His wife, all his celebrity friends and stuff. But aside from that’s not enough to sustain a label in the long run. The only rapper to ever really successfully run a premium streetwear label was Pharell with BBC, and his price point was actually very reasonable for a Made in Japan brand, which Yeezy is not. If Kanye was smart, he woulda done something like Rocawear or Sean John, made like 300M and quit. What he’s doing now is almost like a waste of momentum.
Crazy that you say that bc YZY line does make BBC and Bape look resonably priced which is wild as hell.
Hopefully there was a true lesson to be learned from this for the decision makers over the price points bc I love the line im still admittedly just your everyday broke boi
The line is cool, and it it was priced closer to what it’s worth which is Adidas pricing, maybe the $60-280 range or, he would sell more and his customers would be a lot happier. I think what Kanye’s team has confused right now is they think if they hype price the fuck out of it, later when they drop the price people will flock to it. I think right now the BS pricing has everybody discussing it, but only the hype is sustaining it. So what I predict will probably happen is until Kanye starts focusing on fashion full time, or hires a design team, the brand will be sustained only be hype and take tremendous losses because of the size of his marketing budget each year. If Kanye can learn to effectively design, or at least hire designers and not be egotistical and admit he’s not experienced enough, then maybe he can make it into a BBC. Yo even Nigo and his team designed for Pharell, Pharell is an amazing artist and he even was humble enough to know he needed help in the design department. Fashion design is fucking hard, there’s a reason Raf gets paid so much. It’s actually cuz he’s brilliant, not because he hypes up bullshit.
“…..or hires a design team”…..i can tell you know nothing …or whoever your inside person is….they must be getting their info from a non insider too. Great theory tho. how’d he blow 8mil with no design team?
May I also add that I just looked up who Pete Fox is. Pete is the CEO of Fox Motorcross. I’m sure he’s quite experienced managing a technical/active wear company but that is very different from trying to run a high fashion company. I don’t know why he would appoint somebody like that for, perhaps nobody in the high fashion world would cosign his brand?
While I think we can use the word “ego”, let’s go for something a little more professional: vision. Kanye has a vision of owning and operating a high end luxury brand. In this same vision, Kanye does not know what the clothing within this high end luxury brand look like.
I am a fashion student with major-house internship experience – so surely I’m no big shot – but there’s a few simple issues that can be seen with the naked eye. I do think this Pete Fox can bring tons of experience to activewear like you mentioned, but this was also built on the adidas infrastructure. adidas has no design culture, just like Fox Motorcross doesn’t. They don’t follow the 50/50 design/marketing rule that Nike does and surely the 60/40 splitup of the big houses. Also, his name. His “vision” dictated that his clothing bear his name which I believe will always keep him out of the high end conversation. To me, more so than the awful design of the clothing, is the biggest issue with his brand. BBC, Sean John, Rocawear, Phat Farm, Play Cloths can drive profitable margins. We know who it belonged to and all that, but we weren’t wearing a person despite thinking we were dressing like them. With Ye’s line we are wearing a person who isn’t a fashion designer. Its not Wang or Raf. We don’t care how Wang dresses, we care for what he produces. YZY is a product of how Kanye dresses. That’s a problem.
The other problem is Ye doesn’t have a clue. He is constantly off schedule, he knows nothing of supply chain management, he is so arrogant he will not pay a proper design team, and he is amateur AF when it comes to creating a profitable collection. He literally thinks that all fashion design is couture and has no tangible experience. Maybe if he actually hired a proper design infrastructure with experience and not some minimum wage interns straight out of FIDIM he could make somthing at a proper price point had the potential to be a commercial success. As it is he is a joke and no one with an actual carrer in the industry wouldn take a job with him. Keep trying to ride the wave wit no talent loosers like Ian and you are destined to fail miserably.
I’m actually curious to why he won’t at least even listen to some fashion advisors? His best friend is Virgil, you think that guy could at least give him some decent pointers.
I actually have my suspicions of Virgil on the creative front. While I think that entire team is good at making a scene, the last couple months have sort of shown me that Virgil isn’t as creative, fashion wise, that we’re led to believe.
What did you think of Virgil’s last few Off White collections? Did you not feel they were strong? Perhaps he’s not super amazing yet but surely you’ll admit he’s improved since Pyrex days?
Oh yes he’s definitely come a thousand and a half miles since Pyrex to the point I applaud Off-White for producing more than just tees. However I don’t find the Off-White collections very strong, most notably the Men’s collections. I find Off-White to breathe life into the ‘birds of a feather’ quote, referencing the subject that got you and I talking…I think Kanye and Virgil are on in the same in that they are almost “pretending” to be actual fashion designers. I HATE using the word pretend in this case because anybody going out and forcing their dreams alive shouldn’t have that word applied to them but I’m sure you get what I mean. It’s like they feel that if they present it and price it as high-end ready to wear then others will see it as that. I think Virgil is succeeding MUCH more than Kanye in this regard obviously, and I think in 10 years he’ll grow into his vision. I just feel that the access and resources and money they have prevents them from actually taking a step back and working upwards.
You know what? That’s a good point. I think an interesting question to ask would be if Virgil could get his brand this big without any celebrity cosign. Because to be honest, there are so many amazing designers every single year that nobody ever hears of. Designers who have been in the game for a long time, have super developed styles and a good amount of marketableness. I think that’s why people still doubt Virgil, and definitely doubt Kanye. The question is though when Kanye’s fame dies down will Off-white survive that? Having too much money and resource sometimes can sorta give you analysis paralysis, I feel some of my best work has come out when I’ve had absolutely squat and had to really get creative to jump the bar. Insightful talk man, you got anywhere I can add you on?
Very insightful bro. We can exchange info privately if need be. I don’t really have too many public hotspots aside from this.
I don’t dig the name calling because I think we’re here to discuss and critique people’s work, not personalities that we dont know; nonetheless I get what you’re saying. Professional humility will take you places and I think we get surprised by his non-collaborative approach to his clothing because of his super pro collaboration process with his music. One of them works and has been working or else we wouldn’t be talking about him in the first place. The other one well…..yeah.
Really insightful post, probably one of the more educated replies on this entire page. Everybody else on here is just flamethrowering Kanye this Kanye that. Truth is, me and you both know how proper fashion houses run and can clearly see Kanye’s team is not that. I’m actually surprised he can’t convince even a smaller fashion house to support him fashion wise. Fox will be an interesting support staff to what he’s doing, and the Adidas distribution channel and production is enough to bring his clothing to a Zara scale if he one day wanted that, but I think he legit wants to be respected like Wang or any other major designer.
Thanks man! Yeah he is a new designer, and most new designers need usually maybe about ten collections in practice before they actually hit runways. He’s maybe done like 3-4 in total, I think his best collection was actually with APC but I can’t tell how much he actually designed off that collection, probably very little of it. He has excellent taste in clothing but to be a good designer he needs to practice like crazy, I’m talking like do 10 collections a year and probably stop doing music all together for a while which I know he can’t afford to do. Until he does that, he’ll never be as good as a real designer, he doesn’t spend any time actually working to get better on it. There’s third year students at FIT who’ve technically spent more hours crafting their style.
You can even still see product from Season 1 on sale up to 50% and still not moving. The type of retailers that would/did stock Yeezy are more up market then your regular street wear store, thus they likely have higher overhead costs and likely can’t sit on product as long as they should be. I think Yeezy 2/3 will be it, and then Kanye will focus on pastelle or some shit and try and milk that for all it’s worth.
Yes that’s correct, the current situation is the stock is 4 months old at this point, at the end of the quarter and nobody wants it. The type of retailers that purchased it in the first place knew it was a massive risk but wanted the Yeezy cosign anyways so they did it for marketing, not a bad investment. Understand that no store period can afford to sit on stock this long, rich or poor. Clothing must sell immediately to pay bills. I want to see how Yeezy 2 does. Pastelle might be his way out but to be honest I think Ian Connor is probably a ridiculous shit designer because he has zero experience so Kanye is handing off his saving grace to a kid that was just accused of sexual assault by 3 different girls. It actually makes me mad sometimes that such untalented people are given such huge responsibilities. Yeezy and Pastelle both could have been incredible labels if they were managed and designed properly. What a waste of money and the world’s attention.
Good post. I always wonder if anyone actually buys $1000 sweatshirts and jackets.
Gucci sells jackets for like $5,000 and Supreme has some pricey Schotts and I wonder if they only make 10 or if they actually sell enough to make a profit.
The whole industry is so wasteful. It appears like companies make money on tee shirts and then they break even on other things they’re more excited about making.
Thanks New Castle. Yeah there are a percentage of the population that buy $1000 sweatshirts and stuff, but the people who typically pay for that type of clothing would buy it from Boris or like YSL or Givenchy or something. Those type of customers typically have a much deeper understanding of fashion, and have been into it longer than Yeezy has been promoting his shit on here for. Gucci is a historic brand at this point, and Supreme is OG. Right now we can probably best compare Yeezy maybe to a really overpriced version of Sean John, because it’s made by an egotistical rapper, it’s trendy and fashionable but not necessarily winning any design awards.
When it comes to how much inventory brands are holding to make a profit, Supreme only produces 70% of what they estimate their total sales demand will be in order to hype it, but more importantly reduce deadstock because that’s the enemy of all clothing labels.
I don’t think the industry is wasteful, what I think is wasteful is young kids being taught to design like Yeezy and hype horrible products instead of actually learning to become better designers/artists.
Dude seriously screwed the pooch on his pricing, he could kill selling pieces in the 100 to 3 or 400 dollar range, it would be accessible to his fucc bio fans. But his fans can’t afford 2k jackets and there aren’t any dentists and doctors who are going to cop a holey sweat shirt for 500. I have no clue who he’s trying to reach with this shit
Do you have a blog? Someone needs to start a new one because we’re all over this hype shit
I actually do, I work in the fashion industry and got feedback from a tonne of stores hearing how badly his first collection sold. I don’t want to list any of the stores because I don’t want to get anybody in trouble but I want people on Hypebeast to know the truth. Kanye’s shoes sell, his clothing actually doesn’t. Only serious fuccbois actually buy it. No real fashion kids here are going to invest in bullshit overpriced clothing, maybe super baller fobs but fobs still typically have a decent sense of style and this clothing looks like garbage bags.
Yo, what’s the name of your blog? HB would be such a wonderful place if more comments were as insightful as yours
Thanks man. Honestly I would share my blog and identity on here but I feel this has become more of a place of hate than support. As much as I love hypebeast I don’t want to become a target for hired trolls like MD. My main goal on coming on here today was to educate younger viewers on why Yeezy’s strategy isn’t working, and perhaps guide them back to a more pure form of making it which involves plain hard work and enjoying what you do. Notice through all my comments I never said anything negative about Kanye as a music producer, that guy seriously worked his ass off and deserves all of his hype. I believe he can become a dope designer too, he just has to apply the same time and effort he put into his music into clothing. I doubt he can prioritize that much time at this point that’s why I know his label will fail.
Lol…These guys should hire me to design their collection I could probably rescue their brand. I’m on my 14th collection this year.
“I have confirmed sources on this, don’t question it.” Your fellow retail queens working the sales floor don’t count. You clearly don’t understand margin or sell-through, so I’m guessing you probably work the register at a Bloomingdales. The first collection was a tremendous success at retail. Most collections are operating on a 60-65% markup, so the stores only have to sell a small percentage of the collection at full price to break even on the buy. The delays in production are more than likely being caused by Kanye not knowing how to run a business and hiring a bunch of dipshits to handle production. Adidas is a well oiled machine, God only knows what is going on behind the curtain with the Yeezy people. Bottom line, Wang, Gucci, Prada, etc. would kill to have sell throughs like Season 1. Stick to the sales floor son.
Lol I don’t retail and never have buddy. But I have friends who work at all these various stores and told me the complete opposite, and if you check their websites now, their inventory can confirm the shit didn’t sell. Get your facts straight. And no shit there are delays in production because they can’t handle scaling at all, but more importantly the shit isn’t selling. Stick the forums son I’ve been in this industry since you were in middle school.
Who has a significant supply of Yeezy merch discounted below 60%, which would be roughly the breakeven price? Please enlighten us. As I said before, you clearly have never spent a day in a buying office. Go back to the stock room.
None of the stores are discounting it. And again, I’ve never worked in the stockroom either I’ve only done corporate.
Would you mind me shooting you an email?
That’s dope. I’ve been at my line for a few years too but I feel you, I dont wanna advertise that on here either lol. I work in the industry too, and I make my own patterns and sew, so it kills me when people on here talk about quality when they have no idea what goes into making a garment. Just wish there more in this community that knew what they were talking about. I’m gonna look you up on reddit tho
I feel you, honestly today out of maybe 160 comments maybe 2 were negative hater people who were probably paid trolls. Everybody else here saw the logic in my argument. One kid even called me retail staff today, lol I love how people assume my job title and have no idea what I actually do.
For what it’s worth, Visvim is hardly handmade, that’s what they would like you to believe though. Much of it is made domestically in quality Japanese factories with a little bit of (often extraneous) extra work done as well, like the completely pointless handstitched goodyear welting, which only serves to bump up costs. Anyways it’s not worth sticker price, as is yeezy. I would love to see your sources by the way. I’m not pro-kanye and I’m certainly not a fan of his designs, i just want to be able to show other people the sales figures as a demonstrative example of the line’s lack of success. It’s hard to convince anyone on word of mouth alone, unless they’re anonymous Hypebeast posters, but either way please hit me up with those figures. For what it’s worth, the line itself is of no remakable quality – thicker cotton and even stitching does not a designer line make. Either way, if i never have to see another piece of clothing from kanye itd be a dream come true.
My sources come from the buyers of two major retailers who flagshipped the collection, confirmed that they knew it wouldn’t sell, and showed me their website data afterwards to prove it. Don’t get me wrong, the sneakers and boots sold like crazy. But the rest of the inventory is collecting dust. These buyers also communicate with the other buyers from the other stores to confirm the data. I work on the inside so I have conference calls regarding this type of stuff frequently.
is it true that they just used gildan tees and sweatshirts and generic jean jackets, plastered some garbage graphic and tag on them and called it his design?
Hi Offensive Commenter. I’ll explain this right now for everybody reading. It doesn’t matter if it was a Gildan tee or not, a plain cotton t-shirt costs $2 to mass produce, you can actually get it down to 2 cents if you have the scale of Adidas’ factories. It will still be amazing quality, but there is nothing magical about it. It’s just a cotton textile roll cut out, dyed, and stitched together. His sweatshirts appear to be standard cotton french terry, dyed an interesting colour, also easy to do. I’ve done harder shit myself personally. Generic jean jackets? He probably purchased standard roll denim, cut them into jackets, used a pretty standard pattern, not really unique either. You are asking if he used OEM clothing? His camo t-shirts in season one’s video appeared to be OEM. OEM is super ghetto because that’s pretty much making the statement your company is not even competent enough to sew their own t-shirts. I don’t blame him though, this guy makes music 99% of the time I don’t know where he’d find the time to go start his own factory. Starting your own factory is hard as hell trust me I’ve done it before lol.